In Amieira do Tejo there are phalluses in a chapel
In Amieira do Tejo, in the municipality of Nisa, right by the Tagus River, there is a small chapel where we find phalluses. It is not common and deserves a visit, together with the castle. Amieira do Tejo is a small village on the banks of the river Tejo where not so long ago the ferry crossed the waters of the river. Here we find the small chapel erected in the 16th century in honour of St. John the Baptist.
The chapel bears the cross of the Order of Christ at its entrance and its interior is bare, with only an altar in honour of the saint. But the real point of interest is in the ceiling.
The ceiling is entirely covered with sgraffito caissons, which is relevant in itself, since it is not common to use this technique in such large places.
Among the motifs with vegetal, geometric, figurative and fantastic animal elements, the central coffered ceiling stands out, where a woman appears surrounded by male sexual organs.
It is not known what led the artist to sgraffiti phalluses in a church, but the combination of the female figure and the male phalluses suggests a picture of fertility.
As this is the most surprising discovery that the visitor will find in Amieira do Tejo, its castle is also a must-see.
It was built in the middle of the 14th century by D. Álvaro Gonçalves Pereira, prior of Crato and father of D. Nuno Álvares Pereira, the Constable.
Being part of the Tejo defence line, together with Belver and Almourol castles, among others, it was built neither on the highest elevation surrounding Amieira do Tejo nor on the river bank.
The explanation is very simple. D. Álvaro Gonçalves Pereira had the castle built as his residence and lived there for some years. More than a defensive post, it was the family home and therefore did not need to occupy a strategic position.
The castle is very interesting because of its layout, but also because it still has traces of frescoes on two towers. Already faded from view because of the plaster applied during the restoration work of 1922, the frescos depict characters on horseback and wearing armour, as well as pedestrians with what appear to be banners.
The keep was recently restored and there is a small exhibition about the castle and old photos with people from Amieira do Tejo. In the exhibition, besides explanatory panels, a scale model of the keep is on display.
The keep gives access to the rampart and the other towers, completing the quadrilateral that is the castle. It is small but very interesting.
It is a castle where D. Nuno Álvares Pereira lived and which has frescoes with military motifs and a chapel with women and phalluses in the ceiling. What more do you need to bookmark Amieira do Tejo on your GPS and set off?